![]() Despite some undernourished mussels, they gave the dish a thumbs-up. ![]() Two at my table ordered the shellfish roast-shrimp, mussels, lamb sausage, smoky cabbage, potatoes, and grilled bread. It was so much unlike what a friend had described that I wondered if the chef was on vacation. It’s a favorite comfort dish, but the cast-iron skillet’s leg and thigh were stringy and the dumplings were tiny, like gnocchi, adrift in bland gravy. I was thrilled, for example, to see chicken and dumplings on the menu. Unfortunately, most of the food I’ve sampled has been average. ![]() I however always dig the random and unpredictable. This lack of campfire coherence has somewhat annoyed a few critics. So what do owner Michael Lennox and Chef Kyle Schmidt offer to eat? The menu furthers the outdoorsy theme, divided into sections like “trail snacks,” “picnic basket,” “campfire,” and “base camp.” It gets a bit kitschy, campy, and saccharine, but the fare is actually an intriguing patchwork of this and that from here and there. We did not tell ghost stories or sing, “Where Have all the Flowers Gone?” But we did wait outside for an inside table and the staff offered us blankets, for real. It was too cold to dine there when I visited with friends recently. Thus the best seating at Ladybird is on the patio. In its woody, rough way, it reminds me of old-style fish camps whose main decorative feature was the outdoor setting. Ladybird Grove and Mess Hall (684 John Wesley Dobbs Ave.,, 40) is a nostalgic throwback. It’s no surprise, then, that her name should turn up in a new restaurant on Atlanta’s own beautification project, the Beltline. She was also behind expansion of public parks in American cities. She tried to purge the highways of billboards and litter. Lady Bird wasn’t talking about her inimitable teased-and-shellacked campy hairstyle. “Ugliness is so grim, and a little beauty, something that is lovely…can help create harmony, which will lessen tensions.” Lady Bird Johnson, wife of our 36 th president, Lyndon Johnson (1963-69).
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